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Quoted from Surfer Magazine, Tuesday (02/02/2016), a professional surfer named Tom Dosland are challenging waves on Wednesday, January 27, 2016, when a sudden high waves jumping him.
"I like the free fall, it feels like jumping off a cliff," said Dosland. "That's when the connecting strap and feet apart and split in half and then overwrite the head.
He pierced the sea surface with the head down.
"From there, my face like bumping into something, like being punched repeatedly, much like a car accident. The roll of the waves is so incredible that I froze and forgot to pull the buoy rope buoy savior," he recalls again.
In his explanation to the Surfer Magazine, the young man said that he and some colleagues 'fortune-telling' of the waves and the weather will be good on the day it was. They rushed Coast Maui, Hawaii, for the morning session.
However, until there is not so challenging waves, but looming fast. He decided to return again at midday and only together with colleagues who are keen to conquer. Dosland finally eyeing a mounting wave.
"Before the waves, I pedaled while and got back because the waves have not lined up correctly. But when the waves came, I was pretty sure will conquer it, "said Dosland.
"It looks like a monster looming out of the sea when the waves crashing onto arahku.Tapi I continued. Do not care about anything. I swim and take papanku back to the waves, "said the professional surfers.May not be obvious, but there is a wind to face when going into the waves. So it feels like the blind for a few seconds. I can only see with one eye and opaque as well. "
Later, he managed to open two eyes and realize what was going to happen. "I suddenly realized that this was not good for me.
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